" /> Morocco: Culture & Ecology, Fall 2007: October 2007 Archives

« September 2007 | Main | November 2007 »

October 01, 2007

back from Asilah...

We enjoyed a wonderful weekend in Asilah! It was wonderful to feel the sea breeze and escape the heat of Fes for a few days. Highlights of our weekend included exploring the colorful medina spotted with murals around every bend, watching the sunset from the pier, and taking an eventful horse-drawn cart ride to the beach. We all dove in the water and even though it was a little chilly, it was quite refreshing! This afternoon we began volunteering at Ahli, an orphanage for street children. The students engaged in art projects with the kids. They painted, played with clay, made bracelets, and colored together. Remy and Piya came along to document and the kids at Ahli even used the cameras to show their world through their eyes.

The students continue to add to their darija vocabulary and we have heard the first of two lectures on Islam in Morocco.

Since we will be leaving for our month long excursion next Monday, the students are enjoying their last week in Fes with their families before we head south.

October 02, 2007

Asilah Slideshare


(Note/ instructions: To enlarge and see text, please click on "on SlideShare", then click "full" on the bottom right-hand corner of the slideshare box.)


Above is a slideshare story about our adventure in Asilah. More to come!
(Please click play button or forward and backward buttons to play the story or, even better, click "on Slideshare" and view in Full Screen mode.)

Photos Courtesy of Laura Joy

I think everyone in the group is all too well aquainted with my mass photo taking (the count has passed 500, insane yes I know). Anyways I thought it best to post a few just to give everyone an idea of what we're up to.

PS

Alex:

Thanks for the article on Ramadan. On a lighter note, it is quite the adventure here trying to find at cab at five o'clock. Hopefully we'll be seeing you soon!

-Laura

Medina Restoration

Above is a slideshare project about the students' work restoring the Medina that Lamia created.

October 04, 2007

20 minutes to go in Arabic class jam....

I feel so good right now.
On one hand I am anxious about writing arabic, doing my homework, letters, work, ISP, scholarship....................

On the OTHER hand.

I am squeaky clean freshly showered
I have a headband and v. light kohl on
My feet are deliciously soft and lotion moistured
The birds are singing outside
There is sun and a cold breezzzze
that is good with me in my northface jacket
class is almost over
2.5 hour freedom time
In the words of David (?) Neal (?) Cassidy/Dean Moriarty:

"I Dig it"

At the Orphanage

Tara_orphanage.jpg

Ellie_Orphanage.jpg

Alexis_orphanage.jpg

Casablanca

Photography by Kempie Blythe

October 06, 2007

A Message from Meknes

A Virtual Hello from the "Digi Tech Team!" as we've now been labeled...

Halfway through our weekend excursion to Meknes and Volubilis, the group is spending an afternoon's time on their own as some take on the city square for souvenirs as others work on finishing up their video projects. Lauren is pushing a tight deadline as she is planning on showing her piece as a gift to her host family before she bids them farewell tomorrow night at our host family celebration.

Remy and I have some major plans for the blog (slideshows, video poems, the works) but they will have to wait until Wednesday and Thursday when we return to Fes for a few days of high speed internet time while the group treks onward. Meanwhile, scroll down and continue to dream of the many Moroccan moments that we have shared thus far.

Piya

October 07, 2007

A Slideshow from Lamia

Check out Lamia's slideshow on our second afternoon spent at the AHLI Orphanage playing games with some very enthusiastic kids!

(To see the slideshow full screen click on the Slideshare link above)

October 08, 2007

heading to the High Atlas...

We had a interesting trip to Meknes, Volubilis, and Moulay Idriss exploring some of the rich historical periods of Morocco. Tonight, the students are spending their last night with their homestay families. Earlier this evening, we had a "shukkran bezeff" (thank you so much) party for all of the families over mint tea and Moroccan sweets. Tomorrow morning we head out early for our long journey up into the High Atlas. We will arrive in Imlil tomorrow afternnon and begin our trek on Tuesday morning. We will take this time to enjoy a little freedom from the technology we are used to (computers and cell phones). Everyone is looking forward to seeing some snow capped peaks and learning more about the Amazigh (Berber) culture!

We will update you all when we arrive in Marrakesh next week.

Morocco's Initiative to Address Begging

Kaydeer, Maghaariba? I know by now you've enjoyed your first High Atlas sunset and--let me guess--savory pasta dinner in preparation for hitting the trail tomorrow. Any "hab el Malouk" (cherries) for dessert? To hang out in the mountains with you and the amicable Amazigh sounds incredibly appealing right now--it was almost 90 degrees here in Virginia today and anything but autumnal. Happy Trekking and plant that that Global LAB flag--our t-shirt on a walnut branch will do--atop Jebel Toubkal. I look forward to that photo....

I wanted to share an interesting article on begging with you, below, from a recent issue of "Magharebia", as I'm sure you've confronted the magnitude of this social challenge many times over by now. Social centers such as Tit Mellil might make for some fascinating and constructive service learning at some point along the semester--should the opportunity cross your paths. I just wanted to make you aware of this initiative:

Morocco moves to eradicate begging
03/10/2007

A recent study revealed the most accurate figures to date on begging in Morocco. Officials hope to use the data to better adapt a programme launched last March to combat the social problem.

By Sarah Touahri for Magharebia in Rabat – 03/10/07

The phenomenon of beggars is a major challenge for the Moroccan government. To address the root causes of the problem and to understand its full extent, the Ministry for Social Development, Families and Solidarity conducted a survey and announced the results on September 27th. A scientific inquiry throughout the country to evaluate the real size of the problem had never been carried out before.

Minister for Social Development, Families and Solidarity Abderrahim Harouchi said studies previously undertaken on the subject were more theoretical considerations. They have been useful in highlighting the problem of begging, but their evaluations were largely devoid of objective statistical methods.

The survey covered a sample of 3,400 beggars and showed that in most areas, one Moroccan in 150 is begging. According to demographics expert Najib Rassifi, there are 195,150 beggars in Morocco. "This figure is quite realistic, with a margin of error of only 5%." Women constitute approximately 51.1% of the country's mendicants.


The Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer region is home to the largest number of beggars, with a percentage of 21.8%, followed by the Greater Casablanca region with 17.8%. The area of Chaouia-Ouardigha-Abda Doukala recorded the lowest level, with just 6.8%. Whilst 34.6% of beggars are aged 40 to 59, young people of 18 years or less make up only 11.5%. A total of 35.2% of beggars are married.

Ahmed Lamrini, Secretary-General at the social development ministry said the report shows that people who resort to begging are motivated by the need to support a family. In addition, 66.7% of beggars are illiterate and only 0.4% of them have any higher education.

The survey's findings will be used to support the campaign to combat begging, begun in Casablanca in March. Over the past six months, some 440 beggars were admitted to the Tit Mellil social centre, of which 70% have been reintegrated into families. Two fifths of them will remain in the centre and 10% will benefit from socio-economic training programmes. The economic plan is geared towards people who want to run their own small businesses but are unable to produce the capital they need. With this in mind, the social development ministry has signed partnership agreements with a number of associations to finance 37 projects around Casablanca and Rabat.

According to Abderrahim Harouchi, "This strategy considers the living conditions and social situation of the beggars, but it also has a deterrent side to it, in that it tackles professional begging, particularly by applying the law criminalising the exploitation of children in begging."

The strategy will soon be rolled out in three more cities: Fez, Marrakesh and Tangier. According to the government, the chief objective is to tackle professional begging. Several people seeking hand-outs were caught with considerable sums of money. The director of economic and social affairs in the Wilaya of Greater Casablanca, Zine Elabidine El Azhar, said authorities have seized 942,496 dirhams from beggars. One single beggar was found with 300,000 dirhams.

El Azhar called for an integrated approach to the problem, based on agencies' intervention, family and socio-economic reintegration and the application of the law, particularly against repeat offenders and those exploiting children. He has indicated that raising awareness among the public is clearly needed, as well as information designed to educate the beggars themselves.

October 10, 2007

Text Message from Kempie

Kempie sent our NYC office a text message update this morning letting us know that because of unseasonably cool (even some snow and ice) weather in the High Atlas, the group has elected to modify their trekking itinerary, by-passing a summit attempt of Mt. Toubkal in favor of a more relaxed 4 days of hiking between mountain villages. Some are resting up today while others are out on a day hike. They will depart for their trek tomorrow.

John

October 11, 2007

A Second Video Poem By Alexis

Here is another excerpted poem from Alexis's video project: "Street Side Blenders: Progress and Stagnation"


Medina Restoration Part II By Lamia

(To see the slideshow in full screen mode click on the SlideShare link above to the right)

Alexis's Video Poem

Alexis has been working on an extended video poem about her journey through Morocco. Here is an excerpt, a few verses about her musings on a train ride..Enjoy! She will finish her final version in Marrakesh once she has returned from the trek.


Homestay Thank You's

Below is a short video of the students saying their Thank You's and See-You-Later's. Enjoy!


Lauren's Video

We are very happy to present to you Lauren's completed video project, "Family Time," narrated in both Derija and English! She showed this video to her homestay family as a goodbye gift before she left for the trek on Sunday night. Firsthand details from Lauren to come...

(NOTE: This is a longer piece so give it some time to load)

October 13, 2007

All is Well in The High Atlas

Kempie sent in a brief text message today indicating the group was having a fine trek, enjoying some atmospheric fall rain showers, and that they would be heading back to Imlil tomorrow. All are in good health and spirits.

Alex

October 14, 2007

The Trek To End All Treks!

Hello everyone! We have arrived safely and altitude sickness free back in Imlil. These are our impressions from our trek:

Heres a Lashen theres a Lashen...
Majestic white horses, unicorns perhaps? Donkey, horse...no! Mule!
We wished for magic carpets, sadly all Aladin provided us with was a Disney sampler soundtrack
(Goat in tree) Mom Im up here how do I get down!!!!
It was a fertile valley.
Duracell batteries are not to be trusted.
Kempie loves clothes (lines) more then we ever could have imagined
WE LOVE AMAZAGHIS!!!!
Okay who wants to pump!?!
I love bagels...
...you know what I love? BEING IN MOROCCO!

Chocolate. The End.

Love,
The Morockers

BATHROOM ADVENTURES

So this is a tale I have been meaning to write for quite some time now. It is about my search for a viable bathroom on the train from Fes to Marrakesh. And thus I will commence.

1. So, I am in desperate need of a toilet, having been holding my full bladder for quite some time out of sheer laziness. I go to the bathroom nearest to me, look into the toilet, and see, to my near-gagging disgust, that the contents of the toilet are green and brown sludge--completely opaque. I could choose to add my urine to this mess, but I am physically unable. I control myself enough to not sprint out of there.
2. The next toilet requires me to walk the length of the car. So I do so. My immediate feeling among entering the bathroom is relief: the toilet is, happily, devoid of nasty substances. But then I look at the floor. YES. HUMAN POOP! Seems that someone missed the toilet. I cannot bring myself to use that toilet. And so I exit mournfully and resume my quest.
3. The next car features a door that seems to open into a bathroom. Unfortunately, however, the door opens to an empty room. No toilet or sink visible anywhere. I sigh and move on.
4. The door is there, but it will not open. While I stand there considering whether to wait to see if someone comes out or give up and move on, a man appears. He asks something about a telephone--either to borrow one (unlikely) or for my number. I say no and scurry away, to...
5. I say a quick prayer before trying the handle. And--VICTORY!! My savior comes in the form of a clean-enough toilet. So the sink does not work...there is such thing as hand sanitizer!!! I was FINALLY able to relieve the pressure on my bladder, and it was wonderful.

On another note, I, like Kempie, am growing to enjoy the squat!!!

Love, Alexis

Asdaghs Community Service

IMG_6099.jpg

Hello,
Today we ended our trek in Imlil. Tomorrow we will commence our next project (planting 60 fruit trees in the Atlas mountains). With the help of a manager of a Global Diversity Foundation project and the old head of Toubkal National Park students will plant trees for 2 days. In the evening they will stay with a family in Asdaghs. Stay tuned for the next phase of our journey.
Lamia

IMG_5968.jpg

IMG_6066.jpg

October 18, 2007

Morning Time by Ellie

Morning Time in the High Atlas

(Written the morning of October 16, 2007)

“Right now I am sitting outside in the cold air on the balcony of the Berber home we are staying at.
I have no idea what time it is.
I just know that
I woke up with the sun shining in and the urge
to pee.
Everyone else is still asleep.
A rooster is crowing.
Repeatedly.
And I have placed my bum
on the bright geometric patterns
of a handmade wool Berber carpet.
The cold air feels good.

I was hot in my sleeping bag.

I am alone
with myself
and

Marvel

at the

High Atlas Moroccan Morning.

Peace. Salaam. And Good Morning.”


Reflection in the High Atlas

Ellie's Visual Poem as a Slideshow

(To see full size click on the icon all the way to the right of the slide show tool bar (the 2 people side by side)

Photography Update by Kempie

ISP MENTORS

FES MEDINA TOUR

FES MEDINA RESTORATION

MEKNES, VOLUBILIS & MOULAY IDRISS EXCURSION

HIGH ATLAS TREK

High Atlas Trek - By Alexis

In the beginning I saw mountains and
auspicious White Horses and
walnuts.

We hiked downandup winding trails,
scrambling out of the way whenever mules
or the occasional truck (Vive Fes!)
strolled/rolled by.

Too many colors:
red dirt blue sky white clouds gray rocks (neon) yellow lichen
blackandwhite goats green (tiered) fields green (spiky) cacti
brown (Amazaghi) villages camouflaged in the mountainside…
only distinguishable from the rocks by the
brightly-colored clothes hanging out to dry.
pink or yellow or brown minarets standing high above the villages,
proudly protecting their people.
my dark green raincoat.

Avoid the mule excrement…
Drink lots of water…
Listen to the call to prayer,
bouncing off each mountain wall…

Long underwear and sleeping bags at night.
Stale bread and Croq’in and jam and fake cheese in the morning.
Playing cards and wrapping blisters.
goats in trees faraway snow mint tea hospitality
rain pain nightly harira

memories made memorable, pictures made beautiful
by laughter and talking and being together.

That is the High Atlas.



Program update from Marrakesh

Hello,
The community service project in Asdaghs went extremely well. The students worked with the local community association to plant 120 cherry trees for 3 families. With the help of community members we doubled the original amount of trees that we had originally intended to plant.

This week students have several activities lined up including a concert with a Sufi group, a lecture on Sahara Berber culture, Dariija lessons, tours of Marrakesh, and much more.

Lamia

October 20, 2007

High Atlas and Marrakech Slideshows by Lamia

(To see Full Screen click on the SlideShare link above (icon of 2 people) and then expand the screen once you are on the SlideShare website)

More Videos from Alexis

A Glimpse of Some Group Moments...

October 21, 2007

Video troubles

Hey All,
We realize that some of the video clips are not working, and we're in the process of sorting it out. Sorry for the delay. Back soon,

Piya & Remy

October 22, 2007

Update from Lauren

Writing from Imlil, from one of the only computers in a radius of many many miles, at the base of Mt. Toubkal (the highest mountain in north africa). Just completed a stunning four day trek through this area of the high atlas range --full of gorgeous 6-7 hour a day hikes, mild enough to allow me to take in everything from red rock to tiny villages to snowy peaks to scorching valleys to goats in trees... Don't have much time now, but mom, I am alive and well. Despite slowing the group down for two days due to mono problems and popping my front tooth back into my mouth every few hours (for those of you who are confused, a basketball injury has left me to deal with an interesting dental issue in Africa), I am surprisingly healthy and problem free.

I will be in Imlil working on a small community service initiative for the next two days, but will be in better touch upon arrival in Marrakesh. You can check out my movie at:

http://www.global-lab.org/mt/MoroccoFall2007/2007/10/laurens_video.html#comments

Much love,
Lauren

adventures in marrakesh...

These past 6 days in Marrakesh have gone by quite fast, but I think everyone made themselves at home quickly at the Arabesca riad. Our host, Gita, has gracefully facilitated our education in Marrakesh. From teaching us the secrets of Classical Arabic, Fus'ha, to helping us navigate through the souks and medrasas of Marrakesh, our experince has been greatly enriched by her presence. In addition, we were blessed to have the Minister of Islamic Affairs speak to the group about Sufism in the sacred town of Tamesloht. Following our introduction to Sufism lecture, we were lucky enough to have a private audience of a Sufi dhikr (invocation).

At least 3 or 4 of our meals have been spent at Djemaa El Fna eating at Chez Rachida's food stall. I can personally attest that this was some of the best food I have ever eaten in Morocco! We all enjoyed the lively atmosphere of the square - snake charmers, storytellers, acrobats, and much more. Djemaa El Fna is truely an invigorating experience -senses are awoken as you cannot help but be affected by the vitality that is all around you!

Despite some tired eyes and upset bellies, we are all doing well and on our way to full recovery. Tomorrow morning we leave for Essaouria, where we will spend the next 3 days enjoying the windsurfing capital of Morocco! Beaches, fresh fish, delectable gelato, and Gnawa music are on our minds.

October 23, 2007

Signing off From "Digi Tech"

Hi All,

Just writing to let you know that Alexis and Ellie have made our departure today from Morocco extra special in that they have successfully finished their video projects and have presented them to the group (late night and early morning screenings before their seaside excursion!) We are extremely proud of them and will have the pieces posted on the blog ASAP as soon as we encounter another high-speed internet connection! As for us, we have had an adventurous and exciting time in Morocco and look forward to checking in with you all soon.

Thanks for following along, once again, stay tuned

Remy & Piya

October 25, 2007

"My World is Melting" - video poem by Alexis

Riding the waves of Essaouria...

On our way to Essaouria, we stopped by the first women's argan oil cooperative in Morocco in Tamanar. Currently, there are 104 women working at this co-op doing various parts of the argan processing including cracking the nuts, pressing the nuts, and extracting the oil. The students even tried their hands at figuring out this process for themselves. After we passed many goats in tree -yes, the goats actually climb the trees and eat the argan leaves, we arrived in the seaside town of Essaouria. It is such a relaxing place to be! Last night, we ate at one of the fish stalls where we sampled many different types of fresh fish and then we followed this with a Gnawa music performance. Ellie and Lauren tested their musical abilities on the gimbri, a 3-string Gnawa guitar of sorts.

learntosurf_small.jpg

This morning, we learned how to surf the waves of Essaouria. Tomorrow, we will head back to Marrakesh for one final day and then head west towards the desert.

More adventures to come...and pictures of the actual Global LAB surfer girls shredding the waves...

October 26, 2007

Fresh OJ in the Square of the Dead...

Jemaa El Fna.jpg
Jemaa El Fna, Marrakesh

We are back in Marrakesh for a day and about to enjoy the sunset from a cafe overlooking Djemaa el Fnaa, a central square alive with music people selling everything from henna tattoos to fresh squeezed orange juice. My goal tonight is to have a glass of that fresh squeezed orange juice before I leave Marrakesh tomorrow morning. It would be a crime to not try at least one of the 50 orange juice stalls in that oh-so-alive square. So far that square is my favorite part of Marrakesh, notwithstanding the fact that I did not see very much of Marrakesh due to intense concentration ISP work, which I finished (!!!) But, I love the pure life that I see in that square.

Right now my hair is sea salt silky from yesterdays surfing lessons in Essaouira. I am now a surfing master. Well kind of, maybe. I definitely stood up at least twice; and fell (wiped out? surfer lingo?) many more times...

Well it is time to go meet Kempie for dinner. More on surfing and other Moroccan moments later...

much love
ellie

October 29, 2007

In the Oasis

We received word from Kempie today that the group has arrived at the Skoura Oasis where they will spend the next few days experiencing life in a palmeraie and engaging the local community in service activities. First up: building a pen for farm animals and harvesting feed for them from the fields. With desert on one side and an oasis on the other, all are basking in a special setting. This southern swing will climax with a pilgrimage to the Sahara next week. Stay tuned for more oases, more kasbah, odes to geology, and billowing sand dunes.

--Alex

October 31, 2007

A Digital Story from Lauren

Below is a video created by Lauren about the experience in Morocco thusfar. It is approximately 15 minutes long.


Update from Lauren

I was planning on making a series of short video clips in order to visually impart to you my experiences over the past few weeks but ran out of time because my faithful digitech crew (just for you digitech), Remy and Pia, had to head off to Egypt, equipment, insight, and all. Alas, I will tell a few short stories in the form of words-- do forgive all lack of literary creativity.

Before leaving Fes, I spent a weekend in Meknes, Morocco's third imperial city that came into its own in the seventeenth century when it was the capital of Moulay Ismail's Alawite dynasty. Since then, it has become a backwater despite a beautiful medina and fabulous old medrasas (Qu'ranic schools) like the Bouanania, a smaller version of the medrasa sharing both architect and moniker in Fez. I was forced to split this weekend between exploring the city and working on my video for my host family: crunchtime.

On the way to Meknes, I bought some delicious bright red rohmans (pomegranates) and stopped at Volubilis and Moulay Idriss. Volubilis, the stunning remains of the furthest western outpost of the Roman Empire from around the fourth century BC, was mind boggling in presentation of everything from tilework to structural foundations to 'laundry machines' that have been preserved mostly underground for over a thousand years. For some reason, I have yet to forget our guide's crude humor and crude laughter when he stood in the old bathroom area and repeated over and over 'ka ka pee pee politique'-- it took me a few minutes to realize that he was telling us that he thinks the Romans discussed politics just as we discuss politics--with one minor exception: they did it over their business while we do it over, say, a cup of coffee. But we're doing it all wrong, according to him.

From Volubilis one has a wonderful view of Moulay Idriss to the east, a small whitewashed town resting in a comfortable niche in the hillsides. Named for Morocco's most revered saint, Idriss, great-grandson of Prophet Mohammed and founder of Morocco's first dynasty, the town is home to the largest annual moussem, or pilgrammage, in late August every year. Although we stayed only for a short visit, I was exposed for the first time to one of the greatest divergences between Moroccan Islam and Islam outside of the Maghreb: the concept of sainthood. Anywhere else, the Moroccan tradition of travelling around to the holy sites of Saints' burial grounds would be considered idolatry, the one and only categorically unforgivable sin in Islam.

My final week with my homestay family flew by. I was stuck between the necessities to both spend as much time with them as possible and to finish my video for them without them knowing why I wasn't spending all of my time in the kitchen making harira or the living room watching Ramadan comedy sketches. Though difficult, I was releaved when they not only seemed to understand some of my very choppy and inarticulate narration but also to enjoy it. I was stressed leaving Fes, wanted more time with my family, and remain unsure of whether I will have the opportunity to stay with them again (a large incoming batch of students at the language center that our families were arranged through will most likely require a spot in my family, given that it is, after all, one of the best).

I am extraordinarily anxious to return to Fes. Luckily, I will get the chance to do so in less than two weeks time.

Update from Lauren: Swedes and Rashida

What do you think of when you hear 'Sweden'? I think of fire-engine red hair. Bright green eyes. I think eccentric. I think sharp and strict and connected and international and compassionate (as long as I do not say the wrong thing, step the wrong way, send the wrong message). I think multilingual. I think Academia Arabesca. Whatever that means. I think camel dances and dress-up. I think remembering Arabic script by way of crazy hip dips and steps, and sounds that remind me of deranged animals. I think an utterly breath-taking riad, ten percent of an old Moroccan palace. Decorated with gardens, tilework, plasterwork, calligraphy galore. I think bargainer. I think 20 years old--but actually 65--who knew? I think sharp piercing voice. I think Moroccan holler, made by moving one's tongue back and forth impossibly fast and screaming at the top of one's lungs (I hear it calling me to every meal). I think Gita Sellman, my Swedish guide and host and teacher in Marrakesh.

Marrakesh has become everyone in my group's favorite Moroccan city. Except for me--my allegiance stands strong in Fes. But Marrakesh is undoubtably up there on my list. Built for use as the capital of the Almoravid dynasty in the eleventh century BC and subsequently capital of the Almohad and later Saadian dynasties, Marrakesh has reached another golden age in the twenty first century. Rooted by the infamous Djemaa el Fna at dead center of the old medina, it is a city of irrepressable pulsing life, beating drums, packed souks, fresh orange juice stalls, and questionably safety-threatening motorcycles speeding through tiny alleyways (no, mom, my safety is not really threatened).

Highlight of Marrakesh: Rashida.
Story: The second night in Marrakesh I made my way to Djemaa el Fna to try out food from one of scores of stalls serving kebabs, harira, snails, potatoes, aubergine, lots more food, and loads of entertainment. I was warned by Gita that I had to prepare myself for stall workers in white jackets who would harass me to eat at their stalls until I either sat down on their benches or escaped their grip and made my way into the next stall's zone, where the process would promptly begin again. 'Just beware to keep tabs on what exactly ends up on your table, or else you could end up with piles of food and a pretty hefty bill to foot', she reminded me for the third or fourth time as I walked out her door. With this information to direct me, I began my adventure to find the perfect food stall. I found it. The search started out with a clostrophobic walk through the labyrinth of medina alleyways and then labyrinth of stalls, sure enough attracting attention from stall workers, complete strangers, using every method from yelling 'Do you remember me?' to 'Lovely lady!' just to get me to pause for long enough to begin a conversation. Once you stop to talk, you will most likely end up eating at the stall you are in front of. I pushed on. As I worked my way deeper and deeper into the stalls, I had many menus thrown in my face. One caught my eye. Textwise, it was exactly the same as every other menu (and probably, to be honest, foodwise they are no different either... I only say that to be candid, if you ask me otherwise I will have to tell you how much better one stall is--my stall). But on this menu, there was a strange picture. Three strange pictures, to be exact. All the same image: an odd, toad-like face topped by an awkward brown leather hat, man or woman, who could tell? Confused and amused, I made the indeliberate but decisive move of pausing long enough to point to the picture to show my friends. We laughed and moved to keep walking. But, as soon as he saw me point, the stall worker holding the menu yelled, 'look, look!' and pointed dramatically to his stall. Standing on a raised step behind the grill was Rashida, in all her glory, the image on the menu personified, hat included, sporting an ear-to-ear smile and exaggerated thumbs up. Unabashedly entertained, I sat down to enjoy one of the best (and cheapest) meals of my trip this far. I have eaten at Chez Rashida every night in Marrakesh since. If you ever get the chance to visit this marvelously hectic city, go to stall number 42. Best advice you will ever receive on this blog, guaranteed.

I just returned to Marrakesh from the gorgeous seaside fisherman's town of Essaouira. After eating some good fish, hanging out on the beach, writing most of the past three blog entries from a perch in the crenelated fortification wall surrounding the city (built by the Portuguese in the 1500s), and trying rest up enough to shake my mono, I feel energized to begin my journey tomorrow south into the Kasbah and Oasis country and then into the Sahara. There, I'll get to ride some camels, inshallah.

Women and Democracy- a documentary by Ellie

Skoura Community Service

Hello from the South of Morocco,

The students just completed rural development commuity service in Skoura. We worked with two community associations, and a Naturalist from the Museum of Natural History (Marrakesh) /Vice President for the Assocation des Jeunes Marocains pour le Développement et la Culture.

The Naturalist/ Vice President and emloyees from Agricultural du Sud and Couer de Palmier introduced students to local agricultural development (including current economic and environmental issues in the area) during a morning/afternoon lecture.

Students helped do some construction and maintenance work on an au bergerie for a local family with guidance from 2 community associations. The Naturalist also showed students an excavation site for dinosaurs in the area. I will post a slide show of the community service project in Fes.

Tomrrow we will be heading to the Todra Gorge. Stay tuned or more updates.
Lamia