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To test your blogging skills and to avoid the crisis of everyone bringing the same books, I encourage all of my fellow Morocco adventurers to post a blog entry with the books that we can share throughout the semester. Also, feel free to use this forum to share any good packing suggestions, feelings as we approach the semester, good movies/books/articles you have watched/read about Morocco...really anything you want to share with our community.
I hope you all are enjoying your final week with your friends and family - I know they are excited for you to begin your journey! I just wanted to remind you to let your loved ones know that they can subscribe to this blog (the link is just under "search" on the right side) and keep up with all of our adventures in the next three months. Remember this blog is for you! It's medium for your own expressions of how you experience Morocco.
"How do I know what I think until I hear what I say?" -E.M. Forster
In a globally expanding age in which the possibility for interaction is unlimited and conflict is on the fly, an outlet for expression while traveling is absolutely crucial in processing and reflecting the meaning of a journey. For centuries, travel writers have shared their experiences and interpretations with the world while traveling through it. As a traveler yourself, what might you have to say?
We are G-LAB's digital storytelling instructors. We work with new media technologies to tell stories in a modern way - blogs, podcasts, photo essays, and digital stories. What are digital stories? ... they are a combination of text, image, voiceover, and video used to enhance the layers of the personal narrative.
In an increasingly technological time, expression is no longer limited to the written word. So let's move beyond the traditional; expand our creative horizons towards other mediums and disciplines. When we travel all senses are evoked. We see, hear, and feel strikingly new things that criss-cross into a mosaic of meaning. And when we process such experiences we need an adequate space to express this, a space that isn’t one-dimensional like the written page. When you are a traveler you are also a photographer, a documentarian, an anthropologist, and your tools are scarcely limited to the word. While in Morocco you’ll take digital pictures, video footage, voice recordings, write in your journal, and discover the intricacies and stories of the vibrant world around you. So how can you combine all these elements into describing what you have experienced abroad? Through the advent of new media, and particularly digital stories. The idea is to make expression as interactive as possible, to steer away from the traditional text on the page and closer to what it is really like to live and travel... to show what you see, share the sounds you hear, and present the textures and smells of the cultures you encounter. Create a short documentary, focus on the personal narrative, give a poem fresh legs with images and sound, record the landscape through soundscapes, or piece together a photo essay in the Medina. Start thinking of stories and bring your ideas to orientation at Life Bridge for our digital story (DS) workshop on Saturday. See you all there!
Hello,
My name is Lamia Bouziane. I will be a leader for the Morocco fall semester trip.
My cultural heritage is Arab/Berber/ American. Half of my family is originally from Morocco. My father was born and raised in a small village named El-Menzel, near Fes. He married my mother who is American and then settled in the United States.
I was raised in the United States. Since my childhood I have traveled to Morocco during holidays to spend time with relatives. The introduction picture that I chose was taken in Agadir during my last visit to Morocco.
As a graduate of the School for International Training I am very interested in international education programs. This May I completed my Master’s in Sustainable Development. I spent part of my practicum at BRAC (Bangladesh Rural Advancement Committee), where I conducted research on curriculum development. I also spent part of my practicum studying environmental issues through the Alaska Conservation Foundation internship program.
During this past year I have worked as a Capacity Builder Coordinator at Yukon River Inter-Tribal Watershed Council, and as a Contractor for refugee assistance programs in Alaska.
I look forward to getting to know you better in the coming months!
Best regards,
Lamia
The Morockettes
Asallam Aleikum (peace be with you)
We are gathered in the pristine hills of the Catskills to prepare for our journey. From graceful dance moves to team bonding experiences we are developing our connection to one and other.
While at Lifebridge we have shared many awkward moments that will surely be worth their weight in gold when we think of this trip in retrospect.
Now we are looking forward to the future as we fly off tomorrow. We are pumped and excited to be in Morocco and to be with each other and to experience all we can.
Last night a lot of us witnessed a guitar concert which was very nice.
As we anxiously await our departure tomorrow night we are all taking in our last 24 hours here in the States with good music and dancing.
The camels have been watered and we are ready to caravan.
Bis salaama (with peace),
See India blog for more details.
Love,
The Morockettes
Our Morocco semester group arrived safely this morning in Casablanca and are settling in well at their hotel. The next couple of days will be spent touring "Casa" sites of historical and religious importance before heading to Fes, so please check back for the group's first official blog post. Until then, we welcome them to North Africa!
Alex
hey guys,
we are alive and typing on crazy french keyboards! Today is our second day in Morocco. It has been a whirlwnd of new sights and experiences;from our landing in the Moroccan morning when I was so sleepy that I could not keep my eyes open and focused on the approaching Moroccan landscape, (I unlike some of my wiser groupmates opted to watch Oceans 13 rather than sleep. It was still goood.) to trekking through a colorful and busy fish market where people worked hard despite their fasting for Ramadan. It has been overwhelming and exciting.
I have seen, heard; and experienced so ,uch already, that it is hard to take stock of it all. What I know for sure is that I love Morocco. There are many things I dont understand; not knowing the language is disconcerting,and the gender relations are at times off putting and others intriguing. But; Morocco is also beautiful from its addition of beautiful designs to functional objects; to the friendliness of the people that we meet.
It is different, and I think the hardest thing for me right now is finding myself amongst all that is so different. With everything to which I used to define myself in relation to gone, I am left feeling a little lost. The people who know who I am are not here; so it is up to me show my group and morocco without the famliar things I left behind in Houston. It is daunting, but I can do it. I just have to figure out who I am first, eh? hehe, no worries, I still know that dont like spinach and that I looove chocolate.
Anyway, Tommorrow we go to fez and two days after, we meet our host families. Will write more later. I am excited to be here and miss you all.
Love, love, love,
ellie
We received word that our Morocco group arrived safely in Fes this afternoon. The transition from cosmopolitan Casablanca to medieval Fes should make for some compelling blog entries so stay tuned....
Alex
Assalamaleikum from Casa!
We arrived safely in Morocco yesterday. After settling into our hotel, we
explored the medina - from spices, tea sets, olives, and djellabas to a
colorful array of fruits, veggies, and the latest fashions of Casa -we took
it all in! Last night we caught up on our sleep and this morning we visited
Hassan II mosque, the only mosque in Morocco that non-Muslims can enter. We
were all quite impressed by the details of the stunning architecture and the
speed at which it was constructed. We got a taste of more unique
architecture in Casa this afternoon, with a tour of the Art Deco around the
city. We also got our feet a little dirty at the fish market as we walked
around the port and saw fisherman catching , scaling, and selling everything
from shrimp to stingray. Our tour of Casa also included a fascinating
journey into the Jewish museum, the only one in the Muslim world. From
pictures and clothes to fine metalwork and unique Moroccan menorahs, we
gained a better understanding of the Jewish influence in Morocco.
Tomorrow, we will head to Fes to settle in for the next 3 weeks.
Bislama,
Kempie
Fes is quickly becoming our new home. We have had a wonderful experience staying in a quaint guesthouse in the old medina. Our stomachs are full of tagines, mint tea, and delectable Ramadan sweets. The students are adjusting exceptionally well to the fasting conditions of Ramadan. This is truly a unique experience to be in Morocco during this time. We began our darija, Moroccan Arabic, lessons today. Although it will be a challenge, all are looking forward of what is to come. I am impressed with how quickly the students are picking up phrases. Tomorrow, the students will be welcomed in to their new homes and spend their first nights with their homestay families...a exciting time for all
Laila saida,
Kempie
Hello Morocco students and leaders,
To those of you with whom I have never exchanged e-mails or spoken, my name is Aaron and I work as an administrative assistant for Global LAB. I will be doing much of the management for this blog, as well as for the India group's. Given that your incredible program is just beginning, and that I will have a role in it from afar, it seemed proper for me to give you all a formal introduction.
I live in Washington, D.C., and have been working for Global LAB in various capacities since last April. Most notably, (and enjoyably!) I was the blogger and an assistant leader for Global LAB's June 2007 C.E.S.A.R. program in Mexico (the blog with that trip's experience is still up-check it out sometime!) My e-mail address is aaron@global-lab.org, and please feel free to write me any updates you want to be put on the blog, or any pictures you want directly on the blog, outside the flickr application. I will be checking my e-mail twice daily for updates from you all (in the early morning and the evening,) and will post anything I receive immediately.
I truly look forward to following and assisting your experience for the next several months. I understand how difficult it can be to manage a blog or use the internet while 'in the field' and I am here to alleviate that problem as much as is humanly possible!
All the best to a great experience for each and every one of you!
Your blog assistant,
Aaron
Marhaban,
Greeting from Fes! The group is in the process of settling into daily life in the heart of the old city. The students moved into their homestays with Moroccan families yesterday and began Dairija (Moroccan Arabic) at the American Language Institute in Fes.
In the coming weeks students will begin community service projects and work with in-country peer mentors on independent study projects. The students will fill in all the details about their lives in Fes soon. Until then - Bisalama.
Lamia
I am in an internet cafe that supposedly closed one minute ago, so in the interest of saving thinking-time, I will quickly copy an entry from my journal last night:
"Ecstatic. The kind of ecstatic of finally living a dream, so anticipated and exotic that it filled my imagination for months on end. We are here. Casablanca is our first of many peepholes into Moroccan life. Soon after pulling away from the airport, impressions and gut reactions--those so important but often overlooked or washed out--soaked into me. Smells, sights, sounds. Solid.
Ramadan rests like a heavy winter quilt over the outskirts of Casablanca as we drive northeast from the airport towards the Moroccan commercial capital. The muggy air engulfs me boldly, nailing me to my seat in the back of the minibus (which on the outsight reads in cute yellow writing, "We love Morocco"). Eyes peeled wide, looking and listening and absorbing the firsts: the first [used-to-be] white stucco building (for which the city was named: Casa Branca by the Portuguese in the 1500s and later changed to Casablanca by the Spaniards) in slighly desolate condition; the first whif of roadside construction, burning rubber and hot hot African heat; the first sounds of fluent darija, a rythmic dialect highlighted by the occasional staccato 3yn; the first old woman, dark-skinned with deepset eyes, hijab revealing only a few straggling gray hairs and a long cloth dress that strikes me as hot. Very hot. The excited chatter of my American crew provides a background as I sit behind an automobile window looking outwards from my tiny perch.
As we approach the city, the deserted atmosphere of the outskirts is replaced with the bustling about of errands to be run and preparations to be made for the night's feast. Broken down stucco homes are replaced by delicately tiled high rises, and despite the occasional watermelon-toting donkey cart, small farms are replaced by corporate buildings and silence is filled with honking horns, putting cars, and busy people.
I understand from some reading the context for my observations. Built as it stands now within the past century (in dire contrast to the rest of Morocco), and mostly by the French at that, Casablanca represents the hopes and dreams of capitalism Moroccan-style. Who will come here and make it big? Who wlil be able to flaunt newfound riches for the metropolis to see? And who, much more often, will find themselves left dirham-less: living in vast and sprawling city slums, unemployed, unfed, unsanitary, and without any chance at an even sup-par future. And who might even turn to fundamentalist Islam as their only hope--this is where it all begins, for Moroccan extremists at least (for more, google Casa bombings).
But now, here I am in the city centre, watching the tides of traditional Morocco colide with Westernization at its peak. And I could not be happier to be here, where I am now. No other place or moment would so suffice my desires. What a wonderful thing to be able to say. Ecstatic."
Apparently I still have a few more minutes even though the cafe now supposedly closed 26 minutes ago, so a quick update on my first full day in Morocco: This morning we went to see the Hassan II mosque. Finished in 1993 after only six years of construction from start to finish, the mosaue now stands as the third largest in the world, and one of the only mosques in Morocco that is open to non-Muslims. I will try to upload pictures later, but needless to say, it was absolutely fantastic. Dad, you may be interested to know that in the hamman (bathing room) in the basement of the mosque, I learned that although the pillars are made to look like they are made of marble, they are actually a composite of limestone, clay, and eggyolk, a substance believed to absorb moisture from the room and preserve the true color of the brass chandeliers. I think that you should look into it. Wouldn't it be cool to use eggyolk in the walls of Client X's home?
After the mosque we ate a quick lunch of bread and cheese sandwiches in privacy at the hotel (it's not too appropriate to eat in front of fasters and no resteraunts are open), and then headed out to the Jewish Museum in Oasis, one upper class Casablancan suburb. The only museum of any kind in the city and the only Jewish museum in the Muslim world, the small building was home to a wonderful picture gallery and many artifacts from Jewish communities throughout Morocco. Particularly interesting was a "Megillah Hitler" which looked like it replaced Haman's name with Hitlers and although I couldn't see the rest, must of been a story of Jewish escape and survival. Although my French isn't wonderful, the French captions seemed to say that the writer was soon after exectued and somehow the work ended up in the hands of a Casablancan Jew.
We left the museum about two hours ago and wandered through a fish market on the oceanfront, stepping over shark heads and fish guts. Men preparing for the night's break-fast shopped around and we wandered through taking in the strong smells. And sights.
My darija is beginning to establish itself in my mind, and I can't wait to begin language classes later this week. Hopefully I will get some exsposure to fusa'a (Modern Standard Arabic) too, but I'm happy with whatever I take in. Will leave Casa for Fez tomorrow. So excited to meet my home-stay family.
If there are any spelling/grammatical errors here I apologize, now the cafe is waiting for me to leave to close
Lauren
In short, the wiggy noose would not be possible without the following: tandem(sp?) bike, Mary-Ellen or the bump...yes the bump was essential.
I'm already trying to sum up the amount of inside jokes that the Morocco fall semester group will have come up with by the end of this trip...it seems infinite.
In other news I'm in love with my host family. I have four brothers ages 4, 7, 10 & 15. They're incredibly cute but I have to say my favorites are the 7 & 10 year old. They move as a duo constantly and love walking around the Medina at night. Last night after we broke the fast they taught me how to count in Arabic & I taught my 15 year old brother some English phrases.
My host mom is incredibly fussy but in a nice way, she's always worried I'm not eating enough when in reality I constantly feel like I'm going to burst from how much they feed me.
This might be kinda vague due to the fact that I've been writing several pages per entry in my hand written journal. Sorry! I'll post again after we visit Asilah this weekend.
Much Love,
Laura
hello allll! Morocco is going very very well! Katharine if you are reading this from India I MISS YOU AND HOPE YOU ARE HAVING A GOOD TIME!!!
To everyone else, when we talked about culture shock at lifebridge I didn't think I'd have a hard time adjusting to the Moroccon way of life, but I was definitely in for a rude awakening. (not that thats a bad thing). Everything from the food to children is sooo different than it is in America. It's fun to observe the way of life here, within a week I've already realized how American I am.
Anyway that's it for now, meal timmeeee!
FOOOOOOOOOD calls.
I must go.
Otherwise I would write.
Perhaps later.
To tell all
About my stay
In Morocco
With my family
That I love.
Hello everyone!
At the moment, I am sitting at ALIF (the American Language Center, where we are learning Arabic), listening to the call to prayer (which actually just ended), and just barely tolerating this fly that keeps landing on my legs (only tolerating it because I am unable to kill it). It's quite frustrating, actually.
Derija lessons are great--our teacher is super enthusiastic, but all of us were a little taken aback when we learned that our first two Arabic classes, in which we learned the alphabet, weren't our "actual" classes, which will start tomorrow. Our Moroccan culture lectures were great too, and very helpful in terms of preparing to meet our homestays. We basically learned polite phrases to say (most of which contain the name of God) in different situations.
I'm getting really distracted right now though...I want ice cream.
So, anyway, my family is great...very warm and welcoming. I have a 17 yr-old sister (who has a very sketchy boyfriend...DON'T TELL!!!), a 12 yr-old sister (who took me around the medina last night, amongst many "hello beautifuls" and "gazelles" from enthusiastic men), a 15 yr-old brother (who, for the past two days just sat on the couch and watched TV), and a 26 yr-old brother (who took me around the medina during the day and is really nice). There's also a 29 yr-old brother in Germany...the 26 yr-old, Akhbar, lives in Germany with his wife, but he is here for Ramadan. Anyway, I'm going to go for ice cream...!
So to summarize: I am very happy and love you all!
Love, Alexis
The below is a reflection of Ramadan in Morocco from "Asharq Al-Awsat" (translates to "The Middle East" and is the leading Arabic international daily), and I thought our Morocco semester group might find it of interest. Is it accurate and does it resonate? What dimension would you add, what point would you critique? Whether this pillar of Islam has been a personal challenge or scheduling frustration...a period of insight or an opportunity for your own purification and reflection...do realize how special an experience it is for you--as westerners, non-Arabs, and non-Muslims--to experience it from beginning to end. In a medieval setting no less! Here's to Ramadan in Fes--and to a hearty iftar which you are enjoying as I write! --As Sallamu Aleikum (Peace be with you), Alex
==========
Ramadan in Morocco
24/09/2007
By Latifa al Arousni
Rabat, Asharq Al-Awsat- Amongst some of the justifications put forward to explain the low turnout in Morocco’s 2007 parliamentary elections, was that the voting process coincided with the country preparing for the holy month of Ramadan. In their own opinion, the Moroccans were too busy to take part in the elections - which had a turnout of no more than 37%, the lowest ever in Morocco’s history - with preparing for the fasting month by heading to the markets and buying certain ingredients that are unique to Ramadan in order to make sure that the dinner table was full at Iftar [point at which fast is broken] and Suhoor [last meal before the fast begins] with popular dishes.
Getting ready for Ramadan in Morocco begins in the middle of Shaaban [the month that precedes Ramadan] and it is the markets that inform customers of this point as the market traders begin to sell products unique to this noble month, most notably dates, dried figs, and ingredients that are used to make Ramadan sweets such as ‘Chebbakia’, [a deep-fried sweet that is covered in honey and sesame seeds] and ‘Sfoof’ [also known as Sellou in some parts of the country, is a powder-form sweet made of ground almonds, sesame seeds and butter], that are essential for Ramadan in Morocco, as well as ‘Harira’, the soup that is irreplaceable for the fasting Moroccans.
As they prepared for the holy month, the Moroccans hoped that the weather in September, which is considered a summer month, would not be too warm in fear of causing thirst during the longs hours of fasting. Many holiday-goers have extended their vacations until September in the hope that prices would decrease and that popular places would not be overcrowded.
It is customary in Morocco that families get together during the month of Ramadan and spend part of the evening in front of the television sets. Television channels aim to attract viewers with Ramadan specials such as soaps and comedies, the latter of which seem to draw much criticism when they fail to make people laugh. Rather, they become a topic of conversation amongst people to the extent that this has also become a tradition of Ramadan.
But food is what is on everyone’s mind in Ramadan. Most people exchange recipes or discuss the increase in prices of vegetables, meat and fruit or advise each other on what is healthy to eat during this month.
People differ when it comes to breaking fast in Morocco. Some would break their fast with a cup of coffee whereas others would begin with a hot bowl of ‘Harira’. There are even those who prefer to end their fast with a cigarette, completely ignoring the advice of doctors who urge smokers to make the most of the fasting month by kicking the habit.
Whilst, in general, people in the cities prefer to break their fasts with a light, simple meal so as to avoid digestion problems, villagers prefer to end their fasts with a richer meal such as ‘Cous Cous’ or ‘Rafeesa’ [a popular local dish consisting of bread cut into pieces with lentils and chicken] after a hard day’s work in the fields.
Another feature exclusive to Ramadan is the attendance of men and women at the mosques to take part in the Tarawih prayers. This attendance means that the mosques are often filled quickly to the extent that many people have to head to the mosques straight after Iftar in order to secure a spot to pray in. It is noticeable that many Moroccans strongly adhere to taking part in the lengthy Tarawih prayers, even if they do not usually pray for the rest of the year, out of respect and appreciation of the holy month during which bars are closed.
Furthermore, another interesting factor in Morocco during Ramadan is that the level of reading increases. The readership of newspapers that increased during the recent elections will also enjoy a similar boost in Ramadan because reading is a way to pass time during the fasting hours and many papers strive to include interesting journalistic material such as memoirs of well-known figures for example. Ramadan this year has been overshadowed by politics as a lot will be written about the post-election period and the forming of the new government. Furthermore, the number of sales of books on religion and cookery books increase significantly.
The holy month of Ramadan is over before we know it. For those who find fasting comforting for the soul and of spiritual benefit, it is missed for the rest of the year.
Good morning,
I enjoyed reading Alex's posting about Ramadan. Our group has spent almost every evening with families who have welcomed us and invited us over for Fatour (the meal for breaking the fast during Ramadan). We are enjoying warm hospitality, good food, and interesting intercultural discussions during the evenings.
Last night our group was invited over to the home of one of the Moroccan peer mentors. The girls ended up dancing with their peer mentor. The father, an excellent short story writer, shared some of his work.
Yesterday we took a tour of the old medina. We visited the oldest university in the world and saw many different artisans making crafts.
I hope that the students will share some of their stories about the tour and their feelings about Ramadan soon. Now I must meet the students for Arabic class.
Bismallah
Lamia
Asalaam Aliekum!
www.speakingspice.blogspot.com.
Above is the link to my blog. Rather than writing mass emails to recount some of my experiences this fall, I created this space. I welcome you all to check it out! I think that that makes more sense than copying all of my entries here. Hope all is well for each of you, wherever you may be.
Bislama (with peace),
Lauren
As I flipped through the Frommer's Guide to Morocco in a bookstore before my departure from the States, I found some excellent summaries of Idrissid rule and suggestions for quality budget hotels. Then I saw the following bolded comment (and I paraphrase): DO NOT TRAVEL IN MOROCCO DURING RAMADAN. I put down Frommer's and bought the Lonely Planet (which is great by the way). We are so lucky to be here during Ramadan. Frommer's lost my business because it is written for an audience planning a short Moroccan vacation. Its cautionary comment makes sense for those coming for a brief stay: resteraunts are closed (and beware if you eat on the streets-- you will be eyed by unhappy, hungry Moroccans, or worse)m operating hours of every business are significantly decreased and often subject to change by people who are too tired to workm some Moroccans are more on edge from the fast, etc.
But what an unbelievably incredible experience for those of us who get to witness one of the five pillars of Islam from near beginning to end-- and in a Muslim host family no less. From 4am s'hor, to witnessing mass exodus's to local mosques, to delicious specialty foods, to learning more about Islam as a whole, Ramadan brings with it a totally unique perspective into the world of a religion that guides the lives of 99 percent of this country's population. The preparations for f'tor (break-fast at 6:30ish pm) occupy a woman's entire existence. I sat in my kitchen for six hours the other day with my host mother making shibekia- a caramelized Moroccan sweet special for Ramadan- a true bonding experience. Speaking of which, this this the first time after growing up in a liberal American home that I have felt completely comfortable, even happy, hanging around the kitchen with a group of women. I enjoy the chattering company and humor that accompanies such an experience here. I much prefer this to the wallowing hunger that consumes the men as they lie around bored all day.
Cheers to setting me up for Ramadan in Morocco. Surely the nature of Ramadan interferes with the daily schedule of the rest of the year, and often creates scheduling problems. But in the most laid back and wonderful sort of way. Thank you.
lauren
We arrived last night just in time to experience the streets of the Medina opening up to the sounds of the night life during Ramadan. A band of men paraded through the narrow, sweaty streets banging loud, deep rhythms while younger boys danced with metal symbols clacking, everyone was passing each other shoulder to shoulder, men at a nearby bar cheered for FC Barcelona (we think), and we ate an incredible dish of couscous and chicken and tajine and chicken. I mean, really good, served with freshly baked bread and mint tea, where half the glass is stuffed with rich mint leaves and a quarter of it with sugar. A spicy scene to wrap us up in for the first night.... and this was all on the edge of the Medina.
The students are working on ISP's, and we met with them today to see where our tech components could best enhance their projects. Everyone gave us a rundown on their projects, and we're excited to start working on incorporating some sound and image into their projects and get them out and give them some legs. We'll leave it to them to fill you in on the details.
Tomorrow we're off to Asilah, but right now we're off to stuff ourselves with some excellent spice.
P&R
We have been busy, busy, busy! This past week we have dove into lots of enriching activities in Fes. We have had darija classes almost every day and the students are learning the challenges and rewards of learning such a difficult, but beautiful language. Earlier this week, the group took a tour of the medina with our knowledgeable guide, Hamidou, who incidentally we keep seeing around the medina. Hamidou lead us through the weaving labyrinth streets of the old medina. Our senses absorbed the sights and smells of spices, raw meat, herbal remedies, olives, and more. Yesterday we had a chat with an American Fulbright researcher who converted to Islam. It was extremely interesting to listen to her journey of self-discovery and learn about her spiritual path and research. This morning we began our medina restoration project. The girls showed their physical strength as they shovelled sand, mixed concrete, and laid bricks; this project will continue throughout our time in Fes. We finished the day with a lecture on Women and Education in Morocco.
When the students are not busy with classes, lectures, community service, and their ISPs, they have been spending invaluable time with their homestay families.
Tomorrow morning we will rise with the sun to head off to Asilah for some much needed relaxation. There we will explore the art galleries, murals, and enjoy the beach! Hopefully, we will make it to the hammam, Moroccan public baths, as well enshaala!
We are currently on our first weekend excursion in Asilah. A city that has had a sporadic Spanish influence beginning during the years of the Roman empire when Asilah-ans were exported to Spain and Iberians moved here in their place, and most recently during the Spanish colonization of Asilah in the early 1900s (during which most of the current architecture was designed, leaving the city with a motley group of Spanish and Mediterranean complexes), the city is a beach hot-spot during the summers, though looked more like a beautiful but uninhabited ghost town when we arrived this morning. As I wandered around the medina though, I discovered an incredible hospitality that I have not encountered anywhere else.
Morocco is a country where family life and simple greetings can take forever with complete strangers, out of a respect that is infused within every individual. This afternoon I was alone walking down a desolate narrow alley when I made eye contact with an old woman (maybe 60 years old, although hard to tell given that people age quite differently here). She was wearing a loose maroon jilaba, hood on, revealing only a long, dark thin face, woody fingers, and black leather sandals. When we made eye contact, she smiled a great smile. So, naturally, I said, äsalaam aliekum. Her eyes brightened as she stopped in front of me and replied gently, ¨wa aliekum salaam¨. She reached out for my hand and kissed both of my cheeks. We proceeded to exchange Moroccan ¨how are you¨s back and forth seven times. She asked me how my family was, and I asked about hers. Then, she invited me to her home for f'tor (break fast). I wished that I did not have group obligations. I explained that I could not make it tonight. She pointed to her home to my right and and told me to knock on the door if I changed my mind or ever needed somewhere to sit down and have a cup of mint tea. With that, she kissed me again and disappeared inside.
There are some things that make being a woman here a difficult (esp an American woman) because it can be dangerous to wander alone and I have problems with being couped up. But then there are times like this that I could not be more grateful to be female.
lauren