Group Health, "A Mid Summer Night's Dream," etc.
Things here in Leh took a tremendous turn for the better today. After several days of general altitude fatigue compounded by a stomach bug that seemed to claim most all members of the group, we've rebounded with our feet moving.
Yesterday morning we ventured up to Shanti Stupa, where Namgial gave us an informative talk on the history and culture of Ladakh and its relations with Tibet, Kashmir, and greater India. The afternoon was spent in relaxation before a tremendous theatrical production of Ladakh's own take on 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' (plus another one-act number). Afterwards, our first meal of momos wasn't received as warmly as we'd hoped, but an interview on BBC with HH the Dalai Lama got us talking over tea.
Today, we viewed the less than up-lifting but invariably thought provoking, 'Ancient Futures,' which discusses the modern face of Ladakh and its transitions/struggles with tourism and the global economy. We then stretched our legs with a walk up above Leh town to Tse Mo Gompa, a monastery attached to the former Leh royal palace which was built over the 16th and 17th centuries.
After this engagement with some wrathful dieties and a two-story Maitreya statue, we returned for a quick lunch which I believe turned out to be the largest meal we've collectively consumed since last Friday. My encouragements that we all go on the 'weight gain plan' for pre-trek training hasn't been received as warmly as I'd hoped, but appetites are returning with vigor, and my challenges to eat more won't yield soon. The late afternoon featured a lively and illuminating talk with one of Ladakh's greatest local scholars, Tashi Rabgyas, and appropriately touched on everything from Ladakhi history and modern development to Buddhist philosophy and values of non-violence. At this point folks are out and about at various places around the bazaar here in Leh, and it looks like some are sending in blog updates presently.
Tomorrow we're headed out in the morning for an audience with the Sabu Oracle, to be followed with lunch in the Choglamsar Tibetan refugee village and then a visit to the Siddhartha School in Stok. Thursday through Saturday we'll be headed out into western Ladakh: first to Namgial's home village of Dohmkar, where we'll stay with his family and others for the night; Friday we'll continue down the Indus River to Dha village and explore the unique culture and geography of this Dardic community; Saturday we plan on returning to Leh via the magnificient Lamayuru Gonpa (monastery) and perhaps, if time permits, a visit to Alchi Gonpa as well.
It looks like we'll than have a rest-day here in Leh before we commence our trek, in a spectacular region still to be determined.
We'll keep you posted-
Galen