NYC Educator Program: Tibetan Buddhism, 2006

Some of the group at JFK getting ready to board their Air India flight.

Everyone made it to JFK for this evening's flight to Delhi. Check back soon for updates from India.

Posted by Global LAB at 11:50 PM | Permalink

David emailed a brief message from Delhi to say that everyone is doing well. They were heading to catch the bus up to Dharamsala and promised to write with more details soon.

Happy July 4th!

John
Global Learning (NYC)

Posted by Global LAB at 05:17 PM | Permalink

We arrived in Dharamsala yesterday at 3 pm, after traveling since 10 pm the night before from Delhi--after a broken alternator, games of gin rummy at fluorescent lit truck stops, many on-the-side-of the-road mechanics, then finally abandoning our private bus to the public bus, then rickshaw drivers taking our things over to the four jeeps we alternatively hired. On the way up the mountain, monkeys coolly watched our ascent from side posts on the road. Still, so very much easier than the journey the Tibetans made to get to this place.

This morning, we arrived at the temple just after 6 am for the morning prayer. How many maroon-clad monks filled the space, it was impossible to say, along with the bright orange robes of the Indian monks, former "Untouchables." I was struck that they are still set apart, but I need to find out more about that. Monks busily served butter tea out of big silver kettles, and giant flat muffins, which we dipped into the butter tea. They also came around with rice with sweet beans. Such hospitality for such a tremendous crowd.

David translated the meaning of some of the morning prayers--mantra of purification, the Mantra to call the Lama from afar, or the veneration of the guru mantra, and another naming the lineage of teachers.

Everywhere I looked would have made an incredible picture--the beauty of faces and richness of color. And the sound was exquisite, the richness of the bass chanting swelling up form the depths of gravity itself, and holding us with the same sort of strength, and complemented by the occasional cymbal or resonance of horns, and then bits of conversations and people settled into their spaces, greeted old friends, got their tea, or coddled a grandchild.

So much more, but this is just glimpse from this morning. Afternoon malaise is taking over, and I want to get off internet before it shuts down or something.

Peace,

Ellen

Posted by Global LAB at 02:08 PM | Permalink

Lotus presents Lama Tenzin with a kata

It was a long night's journey into day with a broken bus and no sleep to get from Delhi to Dharamsala at 4PM the following day. We definitely bonded through the purification of facing the hardship with jokes, games, and songs. It feels like heaven, though, here in Dharamsala. And Namgyal Monastery (where the Dalai Lama resides) was everything I expected and so much more! We are high in the Himalayan clouds and it's been a lively celebration for His Holiness the Dalai Lama's 71st birthday. I met many people including a Hermit monk who came out for the birthday celebration! I've taken 218 pictures today! I think the children pictures will be the most telling. They posed for me and enjoyed seeing the resulting photos in the camera playback. This evening Lama Tenzin Yignyen, an artist monk and scholar who studied with the Dalai Lama for 35 years, gave us his time by offering our group a beautiful teaching on the Four Noble truths and Buddhist teaching. It was under a colorful tent in the stone patio with stone tables. His words resounded through the raindrops and it was a very beautiful teaching. Our group asked many thought provoking questions.We shared a great Tibetan meal tonight with the Lama. It's delightful having so many teaching colleagues as traveling companions.

Lotus

Posted by Global LAB at 03:27 PM | Permalink

Finally, I got some sleep. I woke up at around 5.45 and took some much needed time to center. And the rain rolled in at 7AM. 7AM on 7/7. I liked to think that the monsoon had started -- the first real rain we've had, but it did quiet down after a half hour.

In preparation for our audience with HH the Karmapa, Alex delivered a great introduction, digging deep into the history of Buddhism in India and the development of Mahayana (complete with Lotus' now much expected interjections and challenges to his statements). As usual, time got away and without having much chance to check in, we boarded 4 jeeps (well, 3 and a really nice Toyota minivan that smelled like new car) and headed down the hill toward Gyuto Monastery, the current center of the Karmapa's mandala.

After some last minute purchases of trengwas/malas/prayer beads to have blessed, we folded katas and gathered in the main building among other visitors. I'd elaborate more, but this internet place looks like it's going to close (and I'm exhausted) and tomorrow we leave at 7.30 am, go off to Amritsar in our 4 trusty vehicles, visit the Golden Temple and then board a 5.30 pm train to Delhi, sleep a few hours at Likir house and then board a 6 AM or so flight to Leh. Finally there, we will take some breathless breaths and hopefully check in in a leisurely way with all those who are wanting to hear from us.

I now summarize: a wonderful audience with the Karmapa in which we had varying experiences, but were probably each of us struck and impressed by his presence and by the way in which he really pondered our questions as if he'd never heard them before and gave such considered responses. Many of us were struck by his gaze, at once soft and penetrating.

We left and with a modicum of processing, rode off to Norbulingka, a center for thangka painting and crafts, and just a really lovely space. As we finished a delicious lunch of lentils, rice, momo and veg, while dodging snails, mosquitoes, an adorable dog, etc, we considered canceling the visit to Drolmaling, our would-be first nunnery, so we could move a little more slowly. Just as the decision was made by some of our executive committee, our fearless and infinitely capable leader Kelsang burst into song about the beautiful women of Dharamsala who could all be found in the nunneries, followed by his announcement that we were on our way to Drolmaling. There was no turning back.

And it was a wonderful visit. The results of the Tibetan Nuns Project is another beautiful space, providing lodging and training to approximately 200 nuns. The main temple had such a calming, powerful feeling that I spotted several of us sitting on cushions in meditation. Wood floors, a beautiful silk appliqué main thangka (some images to follow soon-ish I hope), a throne for HH the Dalai Lama and a modest un-excessive interior design added to its feeling as a refuge. Lotus, Ellen and others spoke with a couple of the young nuns, translated by a very self-possessed 14-year old nun from Kashmir.

Back to the Jeeps and an engaging lecture by Dr Dorje at the Medical and Astrological Institute. Hopefully someone will fill in a description. Laura P. received a diagnosis while others roamed the museum and purchased medical books and other things.

We made it back by 5.40 for our 6 PM talk by activist/poet/essayist/bookstore owner/etc, Lhasang Tsering. While I thought no one could possibly have energy for another talk, Lhasang Tsering was absolutely riveting. After a couple of days of inspiring talks about some of the many contributions Tibet has to offer the world (the celebrations of HH the Dalai Lama's birthday, the inspiring and insightful talk by Lama Tenzin Yignyen, and the experiences of today), Mr. Lhasang's message was grave and powerful, a possible vision of the annihilation of Tibet, taking with it the environment and the world as we know it. Such conviction.

Another exceedingly full day awaits us.

David

Posted by Global LAB at 11:31 PM | Permalink

Posted by Global LAB at 11:43 PM | Permalink

Teachers at the Golden Temple in Amritsar

Jullay Brad!

This trip has been wonderful. We have been running around trying to see all the sights and have been loving them all. Each day has been filled with exciting opportunities to open our minds to the ideas and culture of the Himalayas. We have explored Tibetan Buddhism with talks with Lama Tenzin, a visit with the Karmapa answering questions about teaching, to the awe inspiring Sikh temple - The Golden Temple in Armistar. The people have been warm and welcoming as little old ladies help us through a prayer service making sure we get the most out of it. The food has been wonderful and flavorful, I think we all eat our weight at each meal! I have thoroughly enjoyed the fruit of the region especially the mangos and apricots! We will be visiting the Siddhartha school tomorrow and I am really looking forwards to meeting the kids! More to come!

Erica

Posted by Global LAB at 02:35 PM | Permalink

Kathleen working with students at the Siddhartha School...

and enjoying their creations

In Dharamsala, I felt as if I was in another realm -- geographically because of the location of our hotel (high above the city and with a perfect few of the Namgial Monastery and the residence of the Dalai Lama and spiritually because of the sense of the sacred that seemed to be very real in Dharamsala. We were all at the monastery for the celebration of the Dalai Lama's birthday and experienced it in different ways. I watched some of the dances, music, and speeches by dignitaries and then did a cirumambulation around the grounds that was incredible -- prayer flags everywhere, shrines, beautiful colors of text on rocks, etc. And most wonderfully the day was very misty, so that at times, the mist rolled in and pieces of the landscape and shrine disappeared and reappeared -- quite primeval and wonderful. In any event, the day of celebration was remarkable and we were very much a part of it.

Today, in Ladakh, we went to two monasteries -- Hemis and Thiksey. Driving there itself was an experience because the landscape is so unlike anything I've every seen. The mountains are the driest one could imagine and yet where the land is irrigated it is green and lush with the landscape patterned with stone walls, terraced fields, the vertical shapes of the Poplar trees and the neutral colors of houses and roofs. The monasteries are situated on high flat spots set against the mountains -- built in seemingly impossible places. The architecture is relative simple, the decorations are brightly colored, and there is generally a courtyard in the center with various temples on the sides of the courtyard. There is much to describe but one of the most amazing things has been the opportunity to experience the art in the temples -- it is difficult to describe the power of the paintings and objects we are seeing. After our many discussions of the wrathful deities, Avalokiteshvara, Tara and other deities, it is amazing to see the images on walls, as huge sculptures, small objects etc., and to see them in space in which they are an integral, real, and lively part of the sacred traditions and practice of people here. I am in awe of how wonderfully peoples beliefs' are expressed everywhere -- in the landscape, in the monasteries, local shrines, people's yards, along the roads -- and with such beauty and seeming integrity.

Tomorrow we'll go to the Siddhartha School for a visit before going on to Alchi and then Lamayura where we'll spend the night.

Kathleen

Posted by Global LAB at 03:12 PM | Permalink

Ellen with some new Indian friends

We're up in the Himalayas now, Ladakh. Absolutely stunning. This morning, I went to two (smallish) mountaintop monasteries and one stupa on the top of a mountain. The stupa was at six am and kind of winded me for our schlepping around later on. Still, there's an exhilaration and lightness and beauty being up so high, the colors painted on the Buddhist images are that much more vibrant and the landscape is stunning--a lot of barren brown gigantic mountains with a few snow peaks left (global warming?) and then brilliant patches of green in the irrigated parts of the valleys. We went to a school for Tibetan refugee children, but need to go back tomorrow, since they were expecting us in the morning. So, standing in the parking lot of an already stark landscape, I started playing with three or four little boys, drawing a line in the dry dirt with a pointed stone, and leaping over it to see how far we could jump.

After a few rounds, they threw down their knapsacks to participate in the game in greater earnest. Then we tried to move to hopscotch, but they were reluctant to give that a shot till just before it was time for us to get back into our jeep caravan. They wore earnest little school uniforms, hopelessly losing the battle of orderliness that late in the day in such a dusty place. Beautiful chocolate brown eyes and rosy cheeks and gorgeously open smiles.

Yesterday, we went to the Ladakhi Women's Alliance and got a better idea of some of community development challenges in the valley, and then there are the threats to traditional rural practices and a delicate balance of resources in the face of increasing migration of Kashmiri shopkeepers, Indian merchants, and all of us tourists, among other things.

Posted by Global LAB at 05:16 PM | Permalink

Dear Friends and Family,

To my great joy, the luggage has arrived!!! Well, at least mine did - some of the other's bags are still to be heard from. I hope for my friends’ sake that their luggage turns up soon. I'm glad I got my bag - I had bought a thangka in Dharamsala and didn't want to lose it. Also, my journal was in the bag, and I was looking forward to recording the rest of my India adventure in it.

There is a monastery in the center of town, and I was privileged today to get a look at a sand mandala that the monks were putting together. For anyone who hasn't seen this process, it involves dripping small bits of colored sand in intricate patterns, building up, grain by grain, a map of the path to enlightenment (about 5 ft in diameter). I have some great pictures.

Also of note, the scenery here is quite striking. When we came in on the plane, we flew over the Himalayas - nothing but mountainous desert for hundreds of miles, and the occasional verdant green spot where these tenacious humans have actually succeeded in getting stuff to grow. It's astounding. I made an attempt to photograph some of the mountains, and I think I've got some nice shots to bring home.

The bazaar here is thriving - 8 months out of the year, this place is inaccessible and snowed over. These people really know how to keep warm - I'd love to bring home some of the leather and wool goods that they're selling here, but simply cannot carry them.

Today we went to the Ladakh Woman's Alliance, which is involved in preserving the manufacture of handicrafts and the culture of the women here. After the film, several of our party went nuts at the handicrafts store, and bought the place out. I got a postcard or two to send to some friends.

It's late, and there is a terrific full moon, which I hope will be bright enough to get me home. The sky is relatively free of light pollution, which is a special treat for me, having lived the last several months in NYC.

Tomorrow we visit a monastery, and when we get back, Kelsang (our trusty guide) is going to arrange a massage for me and a couple of the girls.

Looking forward to seeing all when I get back to US.

Laura

The next day in Ladakh –

So I had a spot of porridge for breakfast, and we geared up and climbed into 4 jeeps (there are 15 of us with our trusty guides) and set off to visit a couple of monasteries. I cannot remember (or pronounce) the names of the monasteries, but did get some nice pictures off the roof of one of them - they're located way far back in the mountains over terrain that looks like Nevada - we joked about extraterrestrial intelligence, and UFO sightings. Probably discussions of these phenomena in Ladakh are not as flaky as they are in the US.

There are enormous statues (several stories high) of Maitreya (in the second monastery) and of Padmasambhava - (in the first monastery). We took pictures of a monk who was retouching the wall art. The pictures which had already been re-finished were bright with striking blues, greens and reds, and included 8 incarnations of Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet. I was following a docent around who was lecturing in French, and quite proud of myself for understanding.

Both monasteries were very high up in the mountains, and to get to the temples, one has to climb several stairs. This was considerably strenuous, with NO shade whatsoever. Several of our party pooped out, and waited for us by an enormous prayer wheel which offered some shelter from the heat. We went to a couple of places for lunch, but couldn't find a place with enough room (the first restaurant) or enough food (the second restaurant). At the third place, we had a lovely lunch - some fried rice (quite spicy) and bread, and noodle soup. Two of our number had brought pumps for filtering water, and we pumped several liters of water - Geoffrey was asking if one of our leaders (all of whom are fluent in Tibetan) could translate the sentiment that we (insensitive Westerners) did not mean to give offence by filtering their water...4 of our party left early to go back to the hotel - they were looking somewhat under the weather - the rest of us continued on to Stok, where we were to visit a school. Unfortunately, there was a miscommunication (we were supposed to be there this AM) so nobody missed out, and we're going back tomorrow morning to bring presents to the kids.

Am set up with an Aryuvedic massage later on tonight, and I have promised a game of chess to a man who runs the World Peace Café, where I like to go for Chai.

Be well everyone.

Laura

Posted by Global LAB at 08:23 PM | Permalink

I thought I would share a moment from this morning. We spent last night in the village outside the Jama Yuru monastery, having arrived lateish in the day after an incredible visit to the I thought I would share a moment from this morning. We spent last night in the village outside the Jama Yuru monastery, having arrived lateish in the day after an incredible visit to the Siddartha School in the morning. This morning I awoke about 4:45 and went out walking at around 5:00. I walked up to the monastery (a good climb), circumambulated a bit, and then sat and watched the sun come up over the mountains. The sun moved slowly, casting a soft glow until at last it was over the mountains and casting shadows across the hills and bathing the monastery in light. I was alone, except for a few birds—sparrows, I think—and it was without a doubt one of the most peaceful, sublime moments I've experienced.

Kate

Posted by Global LAB at 10:07 PM | Permalink

Dear Friends and Family,

Thanks to those of you who wrote to express concern about the bombings. I only just learned about them myself a couple of hours ago, and I am horrified. Also a little scared - we're flying back to Delhi tomorrow morning - early. I'd like to believe that the people who put together these sorts of disasters have understandable motivations - I can even understand resentment and hatred of the US and its citizens, but I cannot comprehend why anyone would be motivated to plan and carry out destruction of this magnitude in India - I wanted to believe that India was a peaceful place, and that it had in common with NYC a certain cosmopolitan diversity which made it a strong and tolerant nation. Apparently not everyone likes this quality.

We just got back to Leh after spending a couple of days looking at monasteries in Alchi and Lakir. Alchi has beautiful wall murals and dates back to the 11th century...Lakir has a golden Buddha sitting on the roof. Some of my best pictures are taken off the roofs of these monasteries - the scenery is stunning with glaciated mountains in the background, but a bit desertified and barren - like I would imagine Mars to be. The temples in these monasteries are disappointing in only one aspect - that is, they are a little dusty and poorly lit - and one is not allowed to take flash pictures...

Tonight was the last night all 15 of us were to be together....we had tea with Khen Rinpiche (the head of the Siddharta School in Stok), and talked Buddhism, then dinner and a little get together in which we gave some gifts to the leaders (Alex and David) and to our guide (Kelsang).

So this is it from Leh. If I get a chance to write more, I will send notes about Agra, which is next on the list.

Lots of love,

Laura

Posted by Global LAB at 10:21 PM | Permalink

Erica and Laura exploring by traditional pedicab

The trip has been truly fantastic and awesome in all senses of those words. Lyssa and I left the group this morning, but I still feel carried by the surge of energy that David and Alex's insights and passion for the subject brought to the group. I have a few contacts now in Leh, and am hoping to set up a meeting or two in the next few days -- particularly with a conservationist working on preserving monastery murals (we think) who David gave me contact info for.

Laura K.

Posted by Global LAB at 01:35 PM | Permalink

Hey guys,

Lyssa and I had a great day and stayed almost as busy as you have been keeping us. But we do have a few questions, and as we are unable to pester you immediately, we thought we'd find a slower method...

We did end up going to the Siddhartha School this morning - one of the highlights for me was actually the bus ride there, as we were in a smallish school bus (think size of the coach to Dharamsala, but with more seats) that eventually picked up approx 60 students and teachers! Most of the preschoolers had a tough time hauling themselves up the first step, and had to get hoisted by their peers. It was introduced to the entire morning assembly that we were going to teach an art class (oops) but it was a lot of fun, and we have a whole mess of student work to show for it...

Anyhow, the questions actually come from the second part of the day. We eventually made it back to the city in time to see the sand mandala ceremony at the monastery (which I hadn't realized was actually part of the group of related monasteries that Khen Rinpoche presides over).

When we got there, the gates of the main building itself were barred, largely because it was already full to capacity, so we found seats on the steps in the old lady section, which always seems like a good place to be.

The first stages were familiar to us: a procession of monks with horns and various musical instruments started at the gates and wended their way into the main building. Most of the rest came through the loud speakers -- a speech or homily of some kind that sounded like it was being translated in two languages, and then prayers and monks passing out prassad - both the sweet rice that we got at the Dalai Lama's birthday and
butter tea (but without bread).

Now come the questions -- the monks passed out red strips of cloth that we wrapped over our foreheads and tucked behind our ears. Some sort of petal-like seed pod was distributed, which some people held, and some put on their heads (under the trip, in the hair, tucked behind the ears...). The monks brought around a very yellow liquid (for want of a more apt description, the color of urine if you are somewhat dehydrated) that they scooped out of large vats, and which we refused because it seemed room temperature and therefore suspect. Everyone else drank most of it and patted the remainder on the top of their heads.

Finally, the lama (not sure who) and his retinue came through. At this point, sitting with the old ladies really paid off, as we were perfectly positioned in the first row.

The lama blessed our kata, and bonked us on the head with a smallish brass teapot topped off with plumes of peacock feathers.

Shortly thereafter we left (having stayed for two hours in the rain), but the music continued for about another two hours. So...everything starting from the red strip of cloth is a mystery to us. Any enlightening comments?? ("More cloth means more clothing??")

Also -- one other anecdote. Lyssa was particularly taken with three old men spinning mani wheels across the way from us. At one point we looked over and found that one of the men had left (bathroom break?) and his friend was spinning his mani wheel as well. It seemed highly amusing, and we wondered how the merit worked -- does the man on break continue to accumulate merit, or does the one taking over get double?

Hope your trip went uneventfully and quickly. Say hi to all if you get this in time...

Laura and Lyssa

Posted by Global LAB at 01:53 PM | Permalink

Lyssa visiting with Khen Rinpoche, founder of Siddhartha School

Julley! (hello, please, thank you & goodbye in Ladakh--it's all purpose!)

We started the day riding the Siddhartha school bus into Stok with about 60 students and teachers standing in the aisles and sitting on top of each other. Khen Rinpoche a Buddhist abbot started this school 10 years ago to serve the children of Ladakh. We came earlier with a group of teachers to observe, meet the students pre k-10th grade and in some cases teach a short lesson. Apparently the 3rd grade missed out on the day so they insisted we return. My friend Laura and I met 25 students in the 3rd grade class and they drew pictures of life in Ladakh for us to exchange with students in New York. It was a blast- the children so full of joy.

Today marked the end of a sand mandala creation at the local temple. It’s an all day event. Buddhist celebrations are very welcoming as every person is given a cup of butter tea and rice during the ritual. We found ourselves sitting with the elderly devotees who welcomed us and gave us shelter from the rain. Ritual is so much a part of Tibetan Buddhist tradition that reminds me of some of the rituals in the Catholic Church. Many beautiful objects surround the ceremony.

Leh is the capitol of Ladakh which hosts many tourists for the summer and basically folds up for the winter. The climate is harsh-its taken me 3 days to adjust to 11,000 feet elevation and the sun has been out in the day but now it’s freezing-- I have every layer of clothing on that I packed. We drove out a few hours to a monastery and the landscape is so dry and extreme. The mountains are brown with moonscape like vistas around every turn. Though we are at the top of the world it makes more sense to think of it as the bottom of the sea.

Looking forward to another week here! Hope all is well
Lyssa

Posted by Global LAB at 09:11 PM | Permalink

Olivia painting with Siddhartha students

3am---------Dharamsala July 6th, I think. Oh my, so far an amazing journey. This hotel Pema Thang is charming, a view of the mountains, lovely balcony-just terrific. My body on some other time zone. The trip from Delhi on a small bus didn't work out very well. It was an adventure---grueling but we are here after a sleepless plane ride, bus ride—jeep ride that I shall never forget. The trucks and bus horns will be with me forevermore---70 miles an hour passing trucks that are highly decorated, personalized and look like toys a child might create---no side walks --women in beautiful brightly colored clothing always hard at work, always beautiful with beads, veils. Men handsome and dark. People sleeping almost anywhere, on meridians, along the side of the road--truckstops playing Bollywood, a dog barks outside. I have not walked through town yet. I want to go to the Temple at 6:30 for morning prayers.

We don't have a clear itinerary at this point and we are all very tired. Dehli was a whirl through some zone I could feel but only react to on the most elemental levels. It's mostly the heat, traffic, sounds and smells that take over the psyche and the beggars,hawkers always approaching, staring at you wanting this and that ---postcards, fans, belly-dancing hats, funny looking beards---woman with babies following you, old people looking sick staring waiting for money---and always Dust, Dust, and more Dust. The Sikh temple serves food to all----we attended. It was like nothing I have ever experienced before. My description must come later, I think I had better rest a little more before six o'clock call.

July 16th, 2006 back in Delhi at Likir House. It was just two days ago that we were at Likir Monastery in the mountains of Ladakh. Looking back at the day of His Holiness’ Birthday, I remember walking through Dharmasala by myself wondering what would be---------no expectations. I found the Temple walking in a spiral through people lining the street setting up their wares for the day. Clearly, I was a foreigner taking it all in. I found my way and chanting was in progress---someone called to me. It was some of our group. I was glad and went to sit with them. A lovely Tibetan woman handed me a pillow to sit on----------gave me chai and a biscuit. I sat with her through the chanting. People prayed and greeted their friends as the chanting emanated from the monks and the populous. I wanted to stay forever but was told that we needed to find a spot downstairs so we could observe the festivities. People had already staked out spots at 9am-----------the dancing was to begin later --------the entire downstairs and upstairs was filled with bodies---------old and young, those in orange and not. His Holiness was present earlier in the day but left--------we were told.

(Occupied Territory) Today--the Karmapa—Tibetan Medicine, The Nunnery, Mountain Drive, Absorption of time--talk--question and discussion-----the present---completely under Chinese control--Tibetans lost purpose---no International support. We listen to a talk by Lhasant Tsering and are shaken---his wrathful energy motivates us to plan some action---perhaps an art exhibit that Lotus and I will put together---still thinking it through and must discuss later. “I'm not from Shangri-La” he says, and much more.

July 8th, 2006
In a Jeep down winding mountain roads, monkeys, cows, shrines and people like roots form a tree line the path as horns announce their passing in tones unknown. Rain on way to Amritsar from Dharamsala--Sikh's and the Golden Temple await-------tat tat truck--tin cans corrugated huts sell fruit, housewares in sign incomprehensible script ---green---green---green and the smell of diesel fuel fills the air. We read about the Karmapa---the Gentle Guru Nanah, talk about Martin Luther King, Gandhi, Thoreau, Emerson and the plight of Tibet and why the Dalai Lama takes the middle road. No more. The trees are marked like zebras—lines in the road, motorcycles sway, people walk--glitter, bright colors and deities fill the space--------stop--toll tax barrier sign across the road, bridges, blow horns. There is a striking difference in the dress of Indian and Tibetan women.

These buses and trucks would make a great photo essay.

Ah, first elephant along the highway 108 miles from Amritsar. The land is flat now poplar trees--Sikkkkkkkhhhhhh police in red turbans sash hanging---no picture please---small towns and water buffalo. I wonder what it takes to live here? I am so glad that today I sit comfortable in this jeep with Geoff and Lyssa able to think, write, photograph and look comfortably out of the window letting my mind flow. Only jolted by sharp horns, turns to and fro---no gossip, talk, idle words filling the space---------------Blessed be India and we.

Now on a train headed bak to Delhi after a visit to Amritsar and the Golden Temple-----As we entered Amritsar the heat rose to the highest degrees---dust everywhere ---the Golden Temple a counterpart, opposite---a beautiful mirage amidst an ancient city and ancient ways---white glowing marble----water flowing, pure and clean---people circumambulate while music wafts through the entire space mesmerizing and comforting a group of ll. A huge pool in the middle of the complex reflects the dreams of heaven offering hope----food to the masses---prayer and some equality ---The Brotherhood. India---rickshaws operated by old men pulling this fat old woman---the Sikhs---the women look at me andlaugh at my clothes---my lack of grace and knowledge. I am clumsy, I see someone feeding the beautiful carp---I want to do something with the offering---food---sweet peanut butter and honey covered with leaves---food for body and soul. A lovely woman befriends me and tells me that I am not to do this---I must instead take the butter with both hands eat it and be blessed------------I try at first but fear for my health---she is so kind ---I do my best. I love India and I will come back. She is proud of her beautiful country and this glorious temple built for the betterment of mankind------------To serve a man is to serve God----------------it says on a large billboard near the temple. This train is pleasant 2nd class with A/C------Amritsar is full of contrasts---------an oasis in the middle of a dust bowl.

July 9, 2006
From the Dust Bowl of Amristar to Dehli by train-now in Leh, after a breathtaking one hourplane ride. I am blessed to have a room with a view, a garden walled by poplar trees and a stone fence. My door opens to an old craggy willow tree--stone stupa just to the left. Chirping birds and children play in peace while I breathe more deeply than usual. I am in a light-headed trance feeling head and body swell, so much in so little out. Our luggage has been left in Delhi and will arrive tomorrow. I am so very happy to be here---Blessed---Thank You, I want to cry I am filled with such joy. I will not speak too soon, but it appears that I have a room to myself, by just drawing lots. Oh my, in the distance I see snow capped mountains. A bird nests above the window and flies to the apple tree here at Hotel Snow View. It is nearly 3pm and I must get ready for our meeting and a walk through town.

July 10th, 2006
Today-Up early---breakfast talk by Alex on the development of various Buddhist sects as preparation for our visit to Hemis followed by Tiksey. What to say? Wondrous monasteries centuries old in the midst of a harsh and mostly barren landscape. Here and there a patch of green, a rivulet, tributary of the Indus River. "Ladakh Pride of India" it says on a sign along the road where women of Tibetan dissent work carrying rocks from one place to another—dust blowing all over them. (I was told that they were actually Nepali women)Tar melting and smoking
wrathfully filling the air with a stench that overpowers---pulling up to Tiksey two monks blow huge horns toward the valley where, I believe soldiers barracks lie. In the heat of the afternoon a procession of monks surround a chorten and perform a ceremony on the full moon. Jeeps and cars fill up the area so the monks squeeze together, I snap photos, I am in the right place at the right time fortuitously.

They chant and pray, I put my camera down and observe. This ceremony performed many times before, they chant on, Vajra here, a bell there----gold flecks in the air, rice is thrown as a blessing over and over again, a few flecks touch me, one on the hands, another on my heart. The monks finish quickly in the heat---tourists, trucks and dust are everywhere---a procession moves up to the temple. I pick up a few grains of rice and want to take them with me as a remembrance but don't. I place them on the altar. Whose remains are in this structure, I wonder? I ask that the monastery thrive and is preserved.

I pray for the people of this ancient land. I am deeply touched by their spirit. Walking up toward the temple I observe wood carvers at work under a canvas. I ask permission to photograph them. They carve a bird and much ornamentation that will be used to spruce up the temple. I notice scraps of unusable bits on the ground and ask if I may pick one up. I will cherish this small piece, perhaps I will use it in one of my own pieces. Thiksey seems a complicated monastery. The music and chanting so powerful. I want to stay longer. The six or seven year old boys learning to become monks are being monitored as the monks chant---they are instructed to move in between bellows or notes, the monks constantly aware of their own practice with an eye on their students undisturbed. Earlier, I walk off the beaten tourist path following my nose or sense of exploration and walk through a dark tunnel over a filthy carpet set in the middle of the path to another courtyard of sorts. Windows, doors, some with locks, cans of milks opened and through here and there, used bags of chips, filthy dust, hot, hot sun always throbbing on the craggy landscape, garbage and more dust. There a smelly open air W/C around the bend---I wonder who lives here? Some one does---it looks like an entire community--clothes lines, etc. But I do not see a live person at all. I want to continue to listen to the chanting but am told I must go back to our meeting place at the prayer wheel. So I get up from where I set at the left of the monk on the floor, his sound vibrating through me. How very moved I am. In the heat at this altitude I can barely walk down the steep stairs but do.

As I approach the Prayer Wheel---children are laughing, whirling themselves on the huge wheel---a bell sounds with each revolution. They are silly, it seems almost sacrilegious. I want to tell them to stop but they move on as I arrive. In the shade I look down at a series of steps and see three figures clad in red walking up the mountainside. I snap a photo, watch. One of the figures stops briefly in the shade. She looks up and we smile at each other. She gestures that it is hot and she is tired. I smile and nod in agreement. A few moments later I see that they are next to me at the Prayer Wheel. The Monk, Nun that gestured to me smiles again. Oh, what a beautiful face she has, I want to treasure it in a photo but don't ask---I fear it will be intrusive and spoil the moment. I bow to her hands folded and say Jule-Julay. Her smile broadens and she takes my hand to shake it. I am so honored! There are twenty-five females living as monks at Tiksey, I am told. We move as a group looking for a place to eat. This
is not so easy. We venture to find a place sit and wait, walk up and down steps make of metal that are not stable. Finally we reach the "Wind Horse" where indeed we are served a meal of rice, soup with noodles, another bowl of broth and pepsi cola. The meal is a hit---onward to the Siddartha School. Many of us carry gifts for the children. School is still in session but there's been a miscommunication and Guru Kenrippoche isn't present. We will come back tomorrow.

I hope all is well--------------this is a most incredible experience.

Olivia

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